Indonesia

Unlocking Gate of Secrets in Cirebon

adityaismail — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 12:44:54 +0800

As a native of Cirebon, West Java, I was never fond of the city. Fifteen years ago, it was stifling, hot and humid, lacking in modern facilities and kid-friendly activities.

Yet, like an abstract painting by Wassily Kandinsky, I recently realized that Cirebon is a place worth revisiting and seeing from a different perspective to fully appreciate its beauty.

From July 16 to 18, the KKS Melati (Melati Social Group) based in Ampera, South Jakarta, shuttled 48 underprivileged children from six shelters in the capital to give them an in-depth look at Cirebon’s cultural heritage sites.

“Kids today know more about modern songs and dances, but almost nothing about their own culture,” said Nurul, project manager of KKS Melati. “It’s very important for them to learn about their roots to respect and take pride in themselves.”

To be eligible for the trip, the children had to pass a test on Cirebon’s culture and history.

“In Cirebon, the Sundanese, Javanese, Arab and Chinese mix and create a unique cultural assimilation, unlike any other part of the country,” Nurul said. “In the visit, these kids can experience it for themselves and see how people from many different backgrounds live and work together in peace.”

The city, the fourth largest along the northern coast of Java after Jakarta, Surabaya and Semarang, has always been an important port and strategic gateway to the island.

There are many versions of its historic past. But according to an old manuscript written in the 17th century by Prince Kararangen, grandson of Sultan Syarif Hidayatullah of Cirebon, the city was founded in the 14th century as a small port town called Muara Jati, part of the Hindu Pajajaran Kingdom.

Because of its strategic location, the port grew into a busy international harbor heavily trafficked by merchants from China, the Middle East, Cambodia and India.

The harbor master at that time, Ki Gedeng Alang-Alang, had the port’s residential area moved five kilometers south of the harbor, where the quiet fishing town grew to become a city populated by people from many different nationalities.

Muara Jati then became known as Caruban (melting pot), and then as Cirebon, where people of different countries still mingle and live together to this day.

The children’s first stop was at Cirebon’s oldest palace, Keraton Kasepuhan, which was built in 1430 by Prince Cakrabuana, son of King Siliwangi of the Pajajaran Kingdom.

The palace was handed over to the prince’s daughter, Ratu Ayu Pakungwati. She married Syarif, also known as Sunan Gunung Jati, one of the nine disciples who spread Islamic teachings in Java.

After Syarif was proclaimed ruler of the city, the palace became an Islamic stronghold. However, a red brick candi bentar , the topless split gateway typical of Hindu temples, still stands at the entrance.

Nearby, there was a small stone monument of lingga yoni , also typical of Hindu temples. Lingga, the stone shaft, represents men, while yoni, a stone slab with a hollow space in its surface, represents women.

“It’s a symbol of Adam and Eve,” our guide Satu said. “The monument shows that men and women need each other and co-exist in this world.

Inside the gates, the lawns were well-manicured with old Banyan trees shading the walkways. At the center is the Taman Bunderan Dewan Daru (Dewan Daru Roundabout Park) with a pair of white lions symbolic of King Siliwangi.

On one side of the park is a museum that showcases the palace’s antique collection, with displays of ancient kris, javelins, bows and arrows, as well as gamelan sets given to the sultan by neighboring countries.

Across from the museum is the Gedong Singa Barong (Singa Barong Building) that houses the palace’s old chariots. Among them is a chariot sculpted for Syarif’s grandson in 1549.

At the head of the chariot is Prabangsa, a mythical creature that combines an elephant, dragon and bouraq , a fabled beast that resembles a winged horse.

“It’s a symbol of friendship between Cirebon, China, India and the Middle Eastern countries,” Satu said.

He pointed out that the 461-year-old chariot was designed with a clever suspension system that prevented it from swaying when it traveled on a rocky path.

The wheels of the chariot were also bent slightly sideways to prevent mud from spraying the passengers when it rained.

“Four white buffaloes pulled the chariot,” Satu said.

“The sultan used to ride on this chariot to parade around the city on the first of Muharam [Islamic New Year].” Because of its old age, however, the chariot hasn’t been used since 1942.

Suhadi, a 13-year-old with the tour group, could not stop shaking his head as he stood before the chariot.

“How was it possible?” he said. “Our ancestors must be very clever [to understand such technology] at the time.”

From Keraton Kasepuhan, we went to Taman Sari Gua Sunyaragi (Sunyaragi Garden) built by Prince Kararangen in 1703.

“Sunya means silent and ragi means body,” our guide Udin said. “The garden was a retreat for the prince and his troops to pray and practice martial arts.”

An eerie aura of tranquility prevailed over the 1.5 hectare garden. The hilly area was covered with lush green grass and dotted with old traditional Javanese buildings with narrow peaked roofs and man-made caves.

The facade of the caves was black rock, sculpted to resemble clouds in the traditional Cirebonese style known mega mendung (cloudy skies), while inside, narrow brick tunnels connected the different passageways.

The children eagerly explored the cave system. “It’s like treasure hunting,” 12-year-old Ayu Ningsih said with a giggle.

One of the caves, Gua Peteng (Dark Cave), was originally used to test the supernatural powers of the prince’s troops.

In order to reach the cave, we all had to step, one by one, on the stone tiles across a lake. As they reached the last tile, the girls had to be very careful in navigating their way in order not to touch a disfigured stone statue at the cave’s entrance.

“It’s the [statue of] Perawan Sunting [Unmarried Virgin],” Udin said. “Legend has it that any virgin that touches her will remain unmarried all her life.”

Another large cave was used as the main dining hall, where the prince entertained his guests.

At the back of the cave were secret tunnels said to lead directly to China and Saudi Arabia in the olden days.

“Cirebon is the gate of secrets,” said Hafizoh, another escort and winner of a local beauty pageant. “The city retains a lot of interesting stories, myths and legends. It’s our heritage. I’m so proud to be Cirebonese.”

But the highlight of the trip was later that evening, when we visited Kacirebonan Palace.

In 1801, Sultan Muhammad Khairuddin was exiled to Ambon because of his anti-colonial agitating. In the wake of his expulsion, rebellions broke out in the city, causing problems for the colonial government.

In 1808, the sultan was brought back to Cirebon, but installed in a new palace, Kacirebonan. His descendants continue to live there to this day.

The ninth sultan, Abdul Ghani Natadiningrat, welcomed our group to the palace.

“These dhuafa [less fortunate] children are also our children,” the sultan said. “We embrace them and hope that we can teach them something about our culture and tradition in this visit.”

Performers at the palace then showcased the Cirebonese traditional arts of tari topeng (mask dance), wayang uwong (puppet dance) and turun sintren (the dance of the descending angel).

The children watched the show with great interest. “I didn’t even blink,” Dika, 14, said afterward.

“The [dance] movements were very graceful and the music was strong and dynamic. I think we can combine the movements with the dances that we already know and make it into something new.”

The son of a fisherman in Kamal Muara, North Jakarta, Dika said he was also an avid student of traditional music and dances. An instructor in the Sumbangsih shelter home in Jakarta teaches dance to Dika and his friends.

He said that the trip to Cirebon had inspired him with new passions and possibilities for the future.

Just like Hafizoh, the trip made me proud to be born Cirebonese.

source: http://www.thejakartaglobe.com/travel/unlocking-gate-of-secrets-in-cirebon/387849

Tourists Return To Former Conflict Zone

adityaismail — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 12:39:13 +0800

Pintu Kota Beach, situated between the villages of Seri and Air Louw, is fringed with lush coconut and pandanus trees giving way way to the sight of giant boulders forming natural private coves where clear, turquoise water lapped at bright white sand. (JG Photo/Wahyuni Kamah)

When I told my friends about my plan to visit Ambon, an island in Maluku, a province in eastern Indonesia, I was met with some shocked stares and a lot of questions. I’m not in the habit of spending my vacations navigating riots or dodging bullets, so I understood my friends’ curiosity and concern.

Between 1999 and 2005, Ambon Island — along with other areas in the Maluku Islands — were the scene of an outbreak of violent religious conflict between Muslims and Christians that left thousands of people dead and hundreds of thousands of refugees.

As a result the government made the islands off-limits to outside visitors between 1999 and 2005. But a peace pact signed in 2002 between the two warring sides has seen a dramatic easing of tensions in the region.

Today, visitors are welcome in an Ambon that has been peaceful for about five years. While conflict still simmers in some regions, for a growing number of curious tourists, the rewards of a visit to the island far outnumber the risks.

A fresh ocean breeze and distant green hills welcomed me when I stepped off the plane at Pattimura Airport.

The city of Ambon and the airport are situated on opposite sides of Ambon Bay so driving to the capital means circling the water on a ribbon of road that winds its way along the coast, offering staggering views of the ocean below and village hamlets on the hills above.

Taxi fare from the airport to the city is about Rp 150,000 ($17) and the drive takes about 45 minutes.

The city of Ambon has a small-town feel and is easy to explore on foot in a day.

Remnants of past strife can still be seen in some parts of town in the form of ruined buildings, but today most of these sites are under construction as crews work to fix the damage of the past.

The lingering impact of the sectarian conflict in Ambon city is most apparent in the way Muslim and Christian neighborhoods are located in different quarters of the city.

Pak Isaak, a driver I hired, explained that mosques are now only found in Muslim neighborhoods, and churches in Christian ones.

“This was not the case before the conflict. After the conflict we started to see the division,” Isaak said. But despite the division, Ambon has the distinct feel of a city coming back together again.

Merdeka Square, in front of the governor’s office, once a flashpoint of sectarian violence, now houses a quaint assortment of cafes and shops, and is a gathering site where young people play football and basketball and hang out under the watchful gaze of a giant statue of the national hero Pattimura, a Christian Ambonese soldier who led a rebellion against the Dutch.

Rumah Kopi (Coffee House), a town gathering spot, is the perfect place to sit and sip tea or coffee with the locals. It’s located in one of the only traditional-style pavilions in Ambon and offers a great view of the surrounding neighborhood.

“It is kind of a local tradition to gather in Rumah Kopi to drink coffee before going to work,” Isaak said.

And it’s such gathering places that give Ambon a reputation as one of the most ethnically diverse towns in eastern Indonesia.

Javanese, Maduranese, Makasar, Mandarin, Butonese and Padang dialects reverberate through the coffee house and the menu is filled with dishes from just as many regions.

Once you’ve explored the city, ojeks (motorcycle taxis) and angkots (minibuses) offer passage to smaller villages on the island.

It’s the island’s pristine beaches and clear, turquoise water that seduce most visitors, however. I was no exception.

Isaak took me to Pintu Kota Beach, situated between the villages of Seri and Air Louw.

Upon arrival I could hardly catch my breath as the lush coconut and pandanus trees gave way to the sight of giant boulders forming natural private coves where clear, turquoise water lapped at bright white sand.

On the way back to Ambon city, I stopped at another beach, Pantai Santai in Latuhalat. It’s a beach where locals like to gather on weekends to relax. I visited on a weekday and had the strand to myself.

As I walked along, all I could hear were the wind and the insistent, gentle roll of waves hitting the shore. A row of small huts set back under big trees offered the perfect spot to relax and enjoy the serenity.

After a while, the rhythm of the waves and the wind put me in a trance-like state of pure relaxation. All my friends’ questions about the safety of the island floated away into the endless Banda Sea.

It occurred to me that there will always be work to be done here to ensure that the mistakes of the past are never repeated. But at that moment, those bad days seemed very distant indeed.

Getting There

Garuda Indonesia offers a daily flight from Jakarta at 9:30 a.m.

Batavia Airways has daily flights from Jakarta at 1 a.m. and 6 a.m.

Lion Air has a daily flight from Jakarta at 1:30 a.m.

Getting around: Car rental (Rp 450,000-500,000 per 12 hours);

angkot (set price depending on the distance); ojek (based on negotiation)

source: http://www.thejakartaglobe.com/travel/tourists-return-to-former-conflict-zone/388047

Rocking at The Stones

adityaismail — Mon, 26 Jul 2010 00:39:44 +0800

There’s a new balcony on Bali’s Kuta Beach to watch the sunset from, only this one comes with oversized couches and beds, hip techno music and a club attached.

It’s The Stones, a new beachside hotel and entertainment center, catering to the party set.

The club officially opened its doors last weekend with a star-studded, two-night event hosted by a laundry list of socialites, from Aida Nurmala to Vera Abby.

“We want to cater to international and local tourists, offering a hip playground just above the beach,” said Peggy Suhirman, a consultant for the resort.

The Stones, whose name is inspired by the legendary British rock band, is a sprawling complex with an eclectic mix of restaurants, bars, boutiques and a soon-to-be opened hotel.

You won’t be able to book a room there until the hotel is finished in late 2011, but last week’s grand opening of the 3,000-square-meter beachfront club and pool areas means you’re more than welcome to stop by to enjoy the view and party for a while.

The complex is set back off of Kuta Beach by Stones Street, a breezy promenade packed with boutiques and restaurants. There’s a sweeping staircase that leads up to the second and third floors. Take it and you’ll arrive in party paradise.

There are two sprawling decks with plenty of comfortable nooks and crannies where guests can relax with a cocktail and watch the sun set over the beach.

After dark, the party is just getting started. Move to the open-air dance area and bar where DJs spin the hottest tunes late into the night.

There are also several other smaller clubs spread throughout The Stones, each with its own trademark, aimed at giving the professional partygoer a well-rounded experience.

“We want to be a lifestyle center in Kuta, so in designing the space, we kept that in mind,” Peggy said.

Once inside, one of the first clubs you pass is Mods, a smaller dance and bar area inspired by the fashion and music of the swinging 1960s.

“We designed Mods to be a little smaller because I think when people go clubbing, they need to be jostled a little bit,” Peggy said.

“I don’t find big clubs comfortable, and we also want to inspire guests to explore different venues within The Stones.”

The next club room you enter is Vinyl. All about creature comforts, this is where music lovers can go to kick back, relax and take in their favorite sounds.

Equipped with cozy sofas, coffee-table books, art and comfortable pillows, the Vinyl experience almost demands that you slow down and get comfortable. It’s the perfect spot for an intimate conversation.

There are even places where guests can plug in their personal iPods to individualize the experience. “We just want everyone to just be themselves,” Peggy said of the space.

The club also has plans to install personal turntables in Vinyl so amateur DJs can take a shot at spinning their own mixes.

Pass through Vinyl and you reach Salt of the Earth, a casual beach-view restaurant and lounge. Peggy promises affordable fresh food and a relaxed atmosphere for guests.

“Tapas and drinks will be available around the clock because we want our guests to feel free to stay as long as they want,” Peggy said.

She explains that the tapas service is tailored specifically for the local preference of snacking rather than having a big meal when on the town.

A private terrace dining area overlooking the beach is also available for private parties of up to 20 people.

The rooftop Infamy bar and pool area sits atop The Stones like a crown jewel.

With infinity pools, Jacuzzis, beds, couches and oversized ottomans, this sprawling space is a perfect place to spend an afternoon lounging by the pool or to watch the majestic sunset over Kuta Beach.

Santi, a guest from Surabaya who attended the second day of The Stones’ opening party, said she really liked the Vinyl room for its great music collection.

“I can’t wait until they have personal music players, so everyone can just drown themselves in their favorite tunes,” Santi said.

Indonesian designer Priyo Oktaviano, one of the hosts for the launch party, gave The Stones two thumbs up. “It’s an excellent place to relax and enjoy life, bravo,” Priyo said.

Better yet, those who really love the space won’t ever have to leave when the 320-room hotel opens in late 2011. The hotel will also boast an additional 6,000 square meters of event space.

If you’re seeking vibrant nightlife above the beach or just a place to relax and disappear for a while, you’ll want to check out The Stones at Kuta Beach in Bali. It’s the place that has it all.

source: http://www.thejakartaglobe.com/travel/rocking-at-the-stones/387000

Heading for The Clouds in Central Java

adityaismail — Mon, 26 Jul 2010 00:39:24 +0800

Shreds of silky white clouds flowed over the hilltops all around. As the clouds made their advance, I turned around to see a wall of rain slowly closing in. For the moment, everything was still on Mount Ungaran, almost 1,000 meters above sea level at one of Central Java’s most revered temple complexes.

A few seconds later and the full force of Indonesia’s monsoon season was unleashed. The few people who had managed the walk up the slope of Mount Ungaran all dived into the nearest eighth-century Hindu temple they could find and took shelter.

“ Hujan [rain],” sighed an old Indonesian woman doubled over by the weight of a basket full of snacks.

There was no light in the temple, the inside of which was about the size of an elevator. The temple was part of Gedung Songo (Nine Buildings), a tourist attraction in Bandungan.

There are five temple clusters at Gedung Songo, built more than 1,000 years ago during the Sanjaya dynasty, which ruled Central Java during the eighth and ninth centuries

The temples look as if a strong gust of wind could blow them over, yet although simple in design, they give an insight into classic Javanese architecture.

Built between 730 and 780 AD out of volcanic stone, along with the Dieng Plateau site near Wonosobo they are Central Java’s most ancient Hindu structures.

I poked my head out into the rain and watched as two more old ladies traipsed up the hill carrying bundles of umbrellas available for hire.

The damp air was filled with the scent of rotten eggs, a not-so-fragrant reminder of the nearby hot springs where I later went to dip my feet before the stench became unbearable.

The temples’ builders no doubt picked this spot because of the remarkable views over Central Java.

From the top of the hill I could see for miles, rich vegetation stretching all the way to a looming row of volcanoes, partly obscured by clouds, in the distance.

It had been a mighty task to walk the two kilometers or so to the top of the hill. It was worth it, but I couldn’t help but feel that there was a slight irony in the way this ancient temple complex had been utilized for the benefit of tourists.

Ever the entrepreneurs, the locals were eager to entertain visitors. There was even a rock band belting out tunes at the foot of the complex.

Despite that, there is something enchanting about the scenery in Central Java. Maybe it’s the endless rows of twinkling rice paddies or the ominous backdrop of volcanoes.

I’d traveled to Gedung Songo from the quiet town of Salatiga, which is located a couple of hours’ bus ride from Yogyakarta.

En route, I’d stopped off at Ambarawa, a sleepy town that had the unexpected bonus of a train museum located at the site of an old rail station.

At the museum, a camera crew was filming an Indonesian travel show hosted by a chirpy bilingual Western woman who was enjoying skipping between the massive steam engines on display.

I climbed up onto one of the trains to see what levers could be pulled or knobs turned. Before I knew what hit me the TV host had bounded my way and began excitedly firing off questions.

“So what do you think of the trains? Amazing, right?” she squeaked.

Her enthusiasm was impenetrable. She was obviously amused by the 20 or so trains there, all built in Europe between 1891 and 1927.

Suddenly, there was a deafening whistle as an old steam train pulling two open-air cars rolled into the station like an elephant lazily finding a resting spot.

The highlight wasn’t the museum itself, but the fact that I got to ride this rusting, wood-fueled train 17 kilometers up into the hills on the only running cog railway in Central Java.

The train was about 100 years old and the wear and tear meant that we didn’t get much faster than a brisk walk. The open-air cars had been remodeled to look as they did way back when, giving the ride a real tang of authenticity.

As we pulled out of the station, the sound of the train’s whistle, which could have woken the dead, alerted locals who live next to the tracks to bring out their children, each of whom excitedly waved and beamed their toothless smiles.

At one point, the burden on the old train became so great that the engine had to loop behind us at an old station so as to push the cars, rather than pull them.

As the train started moving again, the scenery opened up to reveal endless rice paddies.

Farmers up to their ankles in mud and water toiled away beneath the morning sun. With the train behind the cars, I walked to the front and felt the gentle breeze as we trundled along the overgrown tracks.

It took about an hour to reach our destination, Bedono, which was also the end of the line and my jumping-off point to the stunning, rain-soaked views at Gedung Songo.

source; http://www.thejakartaglobe.com/travel/heading-for-the-clouds-in-central-java/385598

Aiming high for the Island of the Gods

adityaismail — Fri, 25 Jun 2010 01:45:26 +0800

President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono has an elusive dream — developing Bali as one of the world’s art and cultural center.

Carrying tradition: Male dancers from Bangli regency perform a traditional dance during the opening of the annual festival.JP/Stanny Anggono

“If the international community has an annual World Economic Forum, it should also create an annual World Cultural Forum here in Bali,” Yudhoyono said during the opening of the annual Bali Arts Festival last weekend.

The annual arts festival, initiated by noted scholar and former Bali Governor Ida Bagus Mantra in 1978, has been a showcase for the island’s rich culture and tradition.

However, it will take more than organizing an art festival to develop the island into an international art venue.

Bali still lacks professional art management and international-standard art venues including well-equipped theater stages and concert halls. Supporting infrastructures are badly needed to make the island a world-class art venue.

The Art Center complex in downtown Denpasar — which is currently hosting the art festival — is no longer adequate to accommodate colossal art performances.

Furthermore, many artists and scholars have strongly criticized the festival committee’s lack of professionalism in handling the event.

The art festival, which created a Rp 5 billion hole in the provincial budget, has turned into a traditional market rather than a sophisticated art event.

Every Sekehe (community-based art troop) complained it could do much better if it had enough money to support artistic endeavors. Improving the management of the annual Pekan Kesenian Bali (PKB) Arts Festival could be the key to making the president’s dream come true.

Ready to dance: Female dancers are ready to perform at the 32nd Bali Arts Festival in Puputan field, Badung, Bali, on Saturday. About 3,000 artists from Bali and seven countries are participating in the cultural fiesta, which is taking place between June 11 and July 11. JP/Zul Trio Anggono

The local administration, with financial and technical support from the central government, should be able to turn this annual art event into international scale art gathering, by taking a closer look at how our neighbor Singapore handles annual festivals for example.

The one-month long festival, started from June 11 through July 11, has the potential to become one of the island’s most popular tourist attractions since it is held during school holidays and summer holidays for overseas visitors.

Kadek Suartaya, an art lecturer and expert in traditional music instruments, was of the opinion that PKB had become a significant secular cultural activity that could draw thousands of spectators if it wanted to.

“This [the festival] is the most awaited event for the majority of Balinese artists and commoners alike,” wrote Suartaya. Both amateur and professional artists see the festival as a landmark for their artistic careers.

PKB features more than three hundred performing arts — theater, dance, traditional and contemporary music and more importantly the island’s ancient and rare arts, preserved so well by its talented and dedicated artists.

Watching the two-kilometer long art procession prior to the opening of the festival on Saturday afternoon was thrilling.

It was a real multicultural event, a window into Balinese arts and culture as well as the culture of other ethnic groups of Indonesia. The active participation of seven foreign countries such as the United States, Sweden, India, Singapore and Japan further enriched and colored this festivity.

Who says you can’t laugh: Comedy dancers entertain spectators during a Calon Arang folklore performance in Denpasar.JP/Zul Trio Anggono

Under the sub-theme Bhuana Kerti, the purification of the Universe, the procession started with a special ritual carried out by Governor Made Mangku Pastika.

Beautiful and handsome musicians and dancers performed Adi Merdangga bale ganjur traditional percussion followed by Siwa Nata Raja dance theater.

Clad in glamorous and glittering Balinese traditional costumes, hundreds of artists mesmerized distinguished guests and spectators.

Delegations from the island’s eight regencies and representatives of artists from 20 provinces in Indonesia and seven foreign countries participated in the procession.

The festival itself is more than just a joyous art activity. It is a search for spiritual enlightenment. This year’s festival bears a specific theme Sudama: Searching for the purity of our conscience.

For the next 30 days, Bali will host hundreds of quality art performances that will enrich anybody watching them.

For Indonesians fed up with the current media hullabaloo, the Bali Arts Festival might just be the perfect antidote — an artistic as well as spiritual oasis.

source: http://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2010/06/17/aiming-high-island-gods.html

Feeling at Home, Javanese Style

adityaismail — Fri, 25 Jun 2010 01:45:25 +0800

Near the heart of Java’s batik industry in Laweyan, there is a house tucked away in an old kampung of merchants and cloth makers in Solo. The home was built in 1939 by Puspo Sumarto, a wealthy merchant who designed it in the Art Deco style that was in vogue in the early 20th century.

In 2000, the house was purchased by Krisnina Maharani, the wife of politician Akbar Tandjung, a former chairman of the Golkar party. Krisnina, better known as Nina, would later spend hundreds of millions of rupiahs to restore the house to its original design.

The result is Roemahkoe Hotel, which gets its name from the local translation of “my house.”

After it was renovated, the home was first used for private gatherings hosted by Nina’s family. Whenever her kin visited Solo, they preferred to stay at the new house rather than her childhood home in the Purwotomo area.

“After occupying the house as a private residence for three years, we finally decided to convert it into a heritage hotel with a bed and breakfast concept. We’d like to share the experience of living in a Javanese residence to a public that loves our heritage,” Nina said.

The Roemahkoe still sports its Art Deco flourishes. Much of the natural light that floods the house during the day is filtered through the numerous, intricately crafted stained-glass windows.

The interior is filled with antique clocks, paintings, furniture and light fixtures from the bygone era. The 14 guest rooms look out on a fountain-filled courtyard and along the breezy, open-air corridors are lines of old tables and chairs on which guests can relax.

“We kept the doors, window sills, two main pillars in the Krobong Room and certain parts of the house with teak wood,” Nina said.

“We did not replace the floor tiles, because we still wanted to maintain the whole authentic look according to how the wealthy merchant’s house was built.”

For Nina, the Roemahkoe is a place to soak in the atmosphere of Javanese culture and caters less to partygoers. The hotel features a restaurant, but there is no bar or karaoke room. Instead, guests are encouraged to try their hand at playing gamelan instruments.

“In front of each room, we put a piece of gamelan so that the guests can learn to play the instrument. In addition, professional musicians come to the hotel to present gamelan performances and Javanese folk songs at the restaurant on Saturday nights,” Nina said.

The attitude of low-key relaxation is personified by a room located behind the hotel’s lobby. Called the Krobong Room, Nina has designated the area as a sacred space.

The shrine is an Art Deco lover’s dream, with large, dark wooden door frames embedded on the top, its sides strewn with ubiquitous stained-glass panels, and two low tables sitting at the center of the room.

“To maintain the sanctity of the room, we do not permit activities to take place in it. It’s not meant for receiving guests or for all members of the family,” Nina said.

“The room is meant to honor Dewi Sri, the god of wealth believed to have helped mortals who were seeking fortune and doing charity. What we do is put various flowers and offerings on a round table.”

The hotel also features a small library containing books about Solo. Guests can have their fortunes read to them by staff members who are all knowledgeable in pakuwon , a Javanese method of astrology that draws its divinations from a person’s birthday.

“I have 15 employees who are working in the hotel, and they are all ready to predict your future by counting pakuwon,” Nina said.

However, Roemahkoe’s elegance and calm atmosphere comes at a price.

“This is more than just an ordinary hotel. This is still my house and I still have the rule over it. In contrast to other hotels that are open for 24 hours, we close our gates at 11 p.m. without reserve,” Nina said, adding that prospective guests who come after closing time are not admitted, as are hotel guests who stay out too late.

Nina said she renovated the Roemahkoe to serve as a monument to Laweyan, considered by many to be the center of Java’s batik-making industry.

The refurbished old home has also had revitalizing effect on its neighboring establishments. At the time of the hotel’s renovation, many of the surrounding houses were also in a state of neglect.

Then months after Roemahkoe opened, the neighborhood saw a sudden rise in new cafes and boutiques.

Valuing the personal touch, Nina said she didn’t mind seeing just a few guests come in once in a while.

“For us, caring for a handful of guests who feel at home is more important than anything. Receiving them with the kind of warmth Javanese are known for would make guests come back to our hotel the next time they visit Solo,” she said.

source: http://www.thejakartaglobe.com/travel/feeling-at-home-javanese-style/381266

Spiritual tourism in Sidoarjo

adityaismail — Fri, 25 Jun 2010 01:45:16 +0800

Holy Sail: Throngs of fishermen sail to Dewi Sekardadu’s tomb. JP/Alpha Savitri

Sidoarjo regency is more likely to evoke painful thoughts of thousands of Lapindo mudflow victims still left in limbo rather than instill a desire to take a leisurely stroll around the area.

But aside from attracting attention as a prime location for natural disasters and man-made catastrophes, Sidoarjo has also become an increasingly popular destination for spiritual tourism.

In Kepetingan, Sawohan, Sidoarjo, East Java, there is a tomb believed to be final resting place of Dewi Sekardadu, the mother of Sunan Giri, one of the Wali Sanga - the "Nine Saints" responsible for spreading Islam across Java.

The most common way to reach the tomb is a 90-minute trip by motor boat from one of the small piers in Bluru Kidul village near the Fish Market on Jl. West Circle, or from Karanggayam village. It is also possible to reach the tomb overland, however the route is quite risky during the wet season, as it follows paths criss-crossing a number of ponds.

Despite being relatively difficult to reach, the tomb is nevertheless attracting an increasing number of pilgrims. According to Haji Waras, a community leader in the village of Kepetingan, pilgrims are usually made up of fishermen, cultural experts, spiritual figures or tourists who have heard about the tomb through word of mouth.

In the 1980s, one or two visitors came to visit the tomb each week. Today, individuals and groups come to pay their respect to Dewi Sekardadu. "The number of visitors increases around the time of the nyadran ceremony, which is held twice a year," Haji said.Fishing communities from around Sidoarjo revere Sunan Giri's mother's grave.

Marching on: Boys carrying offerings walk to the tomb of Dewi Sekardadu, the mother of Sunan Giri, one of the Wali Sanga – the “Nine Saints” responsible for spreading Islam across Java. JP/Alpha Savitri

Every Islamic new year (which this year fell in March), and near Ramadan, fishermen from Sidoarjo and their families get together to celebrate nyadran, which consists in thanking God for health and prosperity provided by the sea.

"Fishermen from villages in the area hold melarung ceremonies. They throw some tumpeng *cone-shaped rice dishes served with meat and vegetables* into the sea, and also take some more *tumpeng* to Dewi Sekardadu's tomb, where the fishermen and their families will eat it together.

But where does nyadran originate from? It is said the celebrations are related to Dewi Sekardadu's tomb. The story of the tomb is rich in legend.

He who holds the key: Samadi, the gatekeeper for Dewi Sekardadu’s tomb.JP/Alpha Savitri

The sacred site's custodian, Samadi, explains that Sekardadu was the daughter of King Menak Sembuyu, the 14th century ruler of Blambangan, Banyuwangi, East Java. According to legend, the area of Blambangan suffered outbreaks of diseases.

The king sought famous shamans to devise cures but to no avail.The king then organized a contest, promising his daughter's hand to whoever could cure her. But no one could heal the princess.

One night, King Menak dreamed the only person who could save his daughter was Islamic leader Syeh Maulana Iskak who had settled in Gresik, East Java.

He quickly summoned the preacher, who managed to cure the princess and took his prize.After tying the knot, they lived in Blambangan, where residents listened to Syeh Maulana preach.

One by one, villagers left their belief in Hinduism, and turned to Islam.This enraged members of the kingdom's powerful elite including, eventually, the king himself.

Even Dewi Sekardadu began to resent her husband. Syeh Maulana finally left the palace to preach elsewhere, leaving his wife, who was pregnant by then.

The baby, who was born in 1365 AD and named Raden Paku, was kidnapped by power hungry officials and placed in a box then nailed and threw into the sea.

Upon learning that her son had been thrown into the sea, Dewi Sekardadu attempted to swim after him but drowned as the box floated away.Fishermen from Balongdowo found the body of a beautiful woman, who they believed to be Sekardadu, floating in the sea.

The body was brought to shore, and then given a proper burial.It turns out Sekardadu's baby, Raden Paku, ended up surviving. A fishing boat rescued him, who today is known as Sunan Giri, one of nine saints of Islam.

- Photos by JP/Alpha Savitri

source: http://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2010/06/04/spiritual-tourism-sidoarjo.html

The Height Of Fine Dining In South Bali

adityaismail — Fri, 25 Jun 2010 01:40:09 +0800

Perched high on Bali’s 70-meter southernmost cliff, Banyan Tree Ungasan resort’s signature restaurant Ju-Ma-Na is one of the latest fine-dining additions on the island. With dramatic views of the Indian Ocean, the stylish restaurant, which serves delectable fresh seafood with a contemporary Asian twist, presented the perfect destination for my food-tasting mission.

After a 20-minute drive from my hotel in Nusa Dua, passing green and serene Ungasan village, I arrived at the resort, famous among honeymooners around the globe for its remoteness and serenity.

Ju-Ma-Na, which means silver pearl in Arabic, opened its doors at the beginning of the year. As its name suggests, the exterior and interior are dominated by pearly hues.

One of my favorite features of the restaurant is the wooden rack that holds a broad selection of fine wine, such as 1995 Chateau Petrus and 1998 Chateau D’Yquem. The bottle tops poking out of the rack add an artistic touch, lending that corner of the restaurant a chic and elegant atmosphere.

The restaurant’s alluring terrace faces the ocean and the comfy rattan chairs present the perfect location for pre- or post-dinner drinks.

Ju-Ma-Na offers an la carte menu as well as a tasting menu; both options feature seafood.

“Seafood restaurants are everywhere in Bali, but if you’re looking for an alternative in preparation and taste, then come to Ju-Ma-Na,” head chef Mandif Membramo said.

With the simplicity of Japanese cuisine, Ju-Ma-Na’s seafood is so beautifully arranged that I found it hard to bring myself to “destroy” these mini-pieces of art.

I sampled five items of the six-course tasting menu, skipping the braised wagyu beef, which according to Mandif takes a lot of effort to prepare. The beef is usually boiled for 36 hours at 64 degrees Celsius to give it a soft texture.

“The time and temperature have to be precise, otherwise you’ll end up with a different taste and texture,” the chef said.

My first dish was ama ebi, or sweet shrimp, served with avocado and avruga caviar. Although shrimp was its main ingredient, the dish didn’t taste of shrimp at all, with the avocado and the caviar dominating the flavor.

The avruga caviar comes from Spanish herring and its smoky, lemony flavor makes it a popular garnish.

Next was a favorite of mine, pumpkin bisque. I have always loved the mild, sweet flavor and soft texture. I usually have it plain, but Mandif combined it with sweet corn agnolotti or pasta and coconut froth. While the dish was good, I am a conventional pumpkin-bisque lover, so I prefer the simple alternative. With pasta, the creamy dish just felt slightly too heavy.

The lime sorbet with hazelnut crumble was served to neutralize my palate after tasting so many different flavors before moving on to the main course: the five-spice red snapper. The sorbet wasn’t too sweet and the best part was that this refreshing, zesty neutralizer had a pleasant aftertaste.

The entree, red snapper served with melted fennel, spinach and saffron pernod cream, tasted rich. While delicious, overall I found the dish too creamy.

I ended the feast with a frozen coconut souffle with white rum sauce. The blend of coconut and rum was simply delicious and left a nice aroma in my mouth.

The three-hour session of sheer gourmet decadence on the cliff edge ended with the best neutralizer of all: hot peppermint tea.

I left Ungasan’s night skyline full and satisfied, and prepared to greet next morning’s sun at the Nusa Dua beach.
Ju-Ma-Na

Banyan Tree Ungasan
Jl. Melasti, Banjar Kelod, Ungasan, Bali
Tel. 0361 300700
banyantree.com

source: http://www.thejakartaglobe.com/food/the-height-of-fine-dining-in-south-bali/382363

Jakarta Turns 483: Problems and Promise

adityaismail — Mon, 21 Jun 2010 12:03:54 +0800

Indonesia’s capital turns 483 on Tuesday. Quite apart from the city’s rich heritage as an ancient trading post and center for national development, its development as a modern hive of skyscrapers, highways and glitzy shopping malls lies side by side with major problems. Pollution is inescapable, thousands of people live in riverside shanties and child buskers and beggars struggle for an existence.

Jakarta Governor Fauzi Bowo, the city’s first directly elected chief, says Jakarta needs good management and planning to rescue it from peril.

Fauzi, an engineer by training, said the massive problems facing the capital can only be solved through a combination of good government and popular support.

Here are excerpts of Fauzi’s interview with the Jakarta Globe:

What is your birthday wish for Jakarta?

My hope lies in Jakarta’s residents. Don’t just grumble about the city. Try to think of positive contributions you can make for Jakarta. If it is just my dreams for the city that people are relying on, it won’t work.

Sometimes, we have something we love but also hate at the same time ... and this city can only become strong with the efforts of every resident.

What key developments have you seen in the city in recent years?

Many changes have occurred. Some positive, some negative. I know that the gap between the rich and the poor tends to grow, but this is not just Jakarta’s problem. It is a national issue.

Please do not just focus on the negative. Despite the intense criticism the city receives, the index of development and life expectancy here remains high. Welfare in Jakarta is also high compared to other regions.

What do you love most about Jakarta?

I love its dynamism. We must be careful though when it comes to dynamism — because it can also ruin a city. A city can head in two ways, toward growth or toward decay.

I will not allow Jakarta to head toward decay, like what happened to New York City, which was once in a bankrupt situation where businesses had closed up shop and downtown New York became like a ghost town.

The New York City administration could not even pay for public services like health, sanitation and security. I will not allow that to happen to Jakarta. The city lives off people’s taxes.

If people don’t come to the city and earn money, there will be no income.

What is your opinion on illegal settlers?

Jakarta is an open city, and will never be a closed one. That’s a fact we have to live with. What I regret is the illegal settlers in the city.

Those who come in are of lower quality, compared to those who leave, who are usually skilled, educated and employed.

They still work in the capital but they live in Bekasi, Bogor and Tangerang. That’s a loss for us.

What have you done about the flooding and traffic jams in Jakarta?

The East Flood Canal has been effective in controlling floods in the eastern part of the city. We will continue to purchase land for water channels and for the dry corridors of the canal. We will complete the open spaces with public facilities that will lead to a better quality of life along the canal. We know we have not been able to handle traffic jams as we should. For now we rely on the busway.

Where is your favorite place in the city to relax?

City Hall. That’s where I work.

Where is your favorite place to eat?

At home and my favorite dish is of course a Betawi home-cooked meal. As long as it is low-cholesterol and low-fat.

What’s your legacy for the city?

People should know that I work hard for the city. That’s it. If there are people who do not like me or how I conduct my work, that’s their own business.

source: http://www.thejakartaglobe.com/home/jakarta-turns-483-problems-and-promise/381610

More Tourists To Visit Papua For Lake Sentani Festival

adityaismail — Mon, 21 Jun 2010 12:03:25 +0800

Jakarta, (ANTARA News) - More foreign as well as domestic tourists are expected to visit Indonesia`s easternmost province of Papua this year for the Lake Sentani Festival (LSF).

Themed "Loving Culture for Our Future," the Lake Sentani Festival (LSF) from June 19 to 23, 2010, is designed to attract as many domestic and foreign tourists as possible.

Jayapura district head Habel Melkias Suwae said Jayapura city on Thursday the Lake Sentani festival this year would be the third of its kind since the first one in 2008.

"The first festival in 2008 attracted around 2,000 foreign and domestic tourists. The number rose to around 5,000 in the second event. This year in the third festival, we hope to see more than 10,000 tourists," Habel said.

He added various preparations were being made to esnure the annual event`s success.

According to him, this year`s event would serve as a year-long gateway for the tourism industry in the province of Papua.

In 2008, the Papua Tourism Office organized the first Lake Sentani Festival from July 16 to 19 to support the annual Baliem Valley Festival in Jayawijaya district.

Since then, the festival was held as an effort to protect the culture of Jayapura district, especially at the areas around Lake Sentani.

Located some 75 meters above sea level and surrounded by beautiful hills, the 3.63-hectare Lake Sentani is a perfect place for fishing, swimming, canoeing, skiing, and other kinds of water sports.

"No wonder, Lake Sentani Festival will serve as a year-long gateway for the tourism industry in Jayapura district specifically and in Papua province in general," Habel Melkias Suwae said.

It means, he said, that in this case tourism will strengthen the identity of the people of Papua, preserve their traditional and cultural values, step up their economy.

Therefore, Habel added that the Jayapura district administration would make every effort to develop the attractive villages around Lake Sentani to constantly attract as many tourists as possible.

"This year`s Lake Sentani Festival is themed `Loving Culture for Our Future` because whoever loves and preserves traditional and cultural values, will also prepare the future of the future generation," Habel said.

According to him, the festival this year was projected to attract more foreign and domestic tourists, and to step up relations between Papua with other provinces in the country.

Habel said being of Melanesian stock, Papuan people were ethnically different but at the Lake Sentani Festival, Papuan people and their culture and traditions would be introduced to both the national and international communities.

"It is because we want to know each other better to strengthen our big national family and to build our mutual trust," Habel said, adding that unlike other events, the Lake Sentani Festival would present guests with dance performances, local customs and antiques, as well as sightseeing tours to historical sites and a tourist village near the lake.

Habel said the festival committee had prepared 1,500 dancers from 24 villages around the lake, while villagers have been encouraged to accommodate the guests and tourists in their own homes to show their sincere hospitality.

Meanwhile, Lake Sentani Festival promotion manager Mian Simanjuntak said his team was working to promote the event through hotel associations and airlines, both at home and abroad, and at cultural events in Australia, Japan, South Korea, Europe and the United States.

Besides tourists and guests, even Vatican Ambassador to Indonesia Mgr Leopoldo Girelli is scheduled to visit the arena at Kalkote resort in Jayapura district on Sunday, June 13, 2010.

Jayapura episcopal spokesman Bishop Leo Laba Ladjar said on Thursday that the Vatican Nuncios Apostolic Mgr Leopoldo Girelli would visit the land of Papua next week.

"The Vatican envoy will come to Papua as part of his pastoral mission, but he will also take time to visit the Lake Sentani Festival arena to obtain first hand information about preparations for such an annual cultural event," Bishop Leo Laba Ladjar said in Jayapura, the capital city of Papua province.

According to him, the Vatican envoy was profoundly interested in the Lake Sentani Festival, themed "Loving Culture for Our Future," because for him, whoever loves and preserves traditional and cultural values, the same has prepared an expected future for the next generation.

The bishop said that in principle, the Catholic Church in Papua respected the local culture and tradition as an integral part of the life of local people.

And again, Habel Melkias Suwae said he had been informed by Bishor Leo Laba Ladjar that the Vatican envoy during his pastoral mission in Papua would visit Lake Sentani Festival arena.

"As the host, the Jayapura provincial administration and the people will sincerely receive the visit to Papua by the Vatican ambassador to Indonesia," Habel said.

He added that the people in Papua were made up of different ethnicities and religions but they could coexist in perfect harmony with one commitment to preserving the values of local tradition and culture.

He said Lake Sentani Festival would be a momentum to strengthen the local tradition and culture and to introduce it to international community.(*)

source: http://www.antaranews.com/en/news/1275556882/more-tourists-to-visit-papua-for-lake-sentani-festival